Trekking in the Valley of Gods

I was incubating the idea of going on a trek for quite sometime. Thanks to Covid,  it happened to hatch only in April 2022.  Myself and my son decided to sign up for the Kullu Valley trek with Woody Adventures. It was the peak of summer in Bangalore and I felt good thinking of the fact that I will be spared  from the  scorching heat for almost 10 days.   

A week before, started our fitness sessions along with the others in the group who would be our family for the next few days. It was a mixed aged group and we were 14 of us.  The D-day arrived in a swift and we boarded the flight to Chandigarh. It was  around 2 pm when we landed there.  I almost fainted when the flight operator announced that the outside temperature was 41 degrees. As we walked out of the airport, hot air was blowing across our face. We were suppose to catch an overnight bus to Kia. Hence, it was  decided that we kill our time by window shopping in  Elante mall, one of the biggest malls in Chandigarh. 

 As we moved around the place, I fell in love with the city for its well-developed infrastructure, clean roads and greenery everywhere.  By late evening when we left the mall, I thanked the owners in my mind for the free AC service that we enjoyed ;).  Later, cherished some local food at a famous dhaba and boarded the bus almost close to midnight. We had occupied almost half of the bus and the rest was mostly by newly wed couples on their honeymoon. 

Day 2

We reached Kia by around 9.30 am in the morning. Two vehicles were waiting to transport us and our luggages to a nearby homestay. River Beas was flowing in full glory. We crossed a small bridge built across it and got into the vehicles. As we reached the homestay and freshened ourselves up, the kitchen team prepared hot lemon tea followed by delicious aloo parathas and served us.

The rest of the day was supposed to be spent in the same place acclimatising to the place and weather. Later in the evening, we took a stroll in the nearby village and visited a monastery nearby. 

The team lead briefed us about following day's agenda.  Day ended with dinner followed by a short walk. 

Day 3

Next day , woke up early in the morning, had good breakfast, packed up our luggage and left to Kullu in a van.  Kullu, also known as the Valley of Gods, is a town consisting of a cluster of valleys nestled in the lap of Himalayas and spread along the banks of River Beas. It has quiet, isolated and idyllic surrounding offering panoramic views of the Himalayan mountain range.  From Google baba, I learnt that Kullu was earlier known as 'Kulanthpeetha' meaning 'End of the habitable world'. 

The horses and mules also joined us at Kullu. They carried our rucksacks. Excitement was in the air. From the base, we started the trekking to Bijlimahadev temple to take his blessings for our journey. The  ascent was indeed an uphill task through a Pine forest trail. 

We were resting at places, sipping water / juice and proceeding. After trekking for about an hour and half, some makeshift tents were visible at a distance indicating that we had come close to the temple.  

This place is situated amidst an alpine meadow on an elevated location between the twin valleys of Beas and Parvathi.  As I reached the top,  an amazing and incredible 360 degree view of the entire Kullu Valley beneath evoked a sense of calm in me.  I was lost soaking in the charm of the place. 

The temple is dedicated to Bijlimahadev, one of the manifestations of Lord-Shiva as a protector from natural calamities. We learnt from the guide that the Shiva lingam in the temple gets struck by the lighting and breaks once in every 12 years. The priest then joins the same by applying butter and it regains its original form. 

When we entered the temple, priest was performing abhisheka to the lingam by chanting Rudra. 

 By the time we offered our prayers and left the place, it started raining heavily.  We took shelter in one of the makeshift tent shop nearby and consumed hot tea.  The descent was a very pleasant one passing through deodar trees all along. 

We encountered a lot of cattle bones on the way. By lunch time, we reached our first camp site. The team setup resting tents, kitchen tent, mess tent and toilet tents. We were done with our trek for the day and after savouring the lunch,  relaxed in the lap of Mother Nature. It started getting cold by evening. All the kids in the group helped collect firewood for campfire. 

As the sun set, it became pitch dark. With stars and planets shining brightly in the sky, did some star gazing, took a small walk post dinner  and we were ready to go to sleep under the moonlit sky by 9.30 pm. 

It was my first time in a tent in the middle of a forest and a strange feeling to go to bed that early without having to do any cleaning job in the kitchen after dinner :)  In no time, I had drifted off to sleep.

Day 4

Trek started at around 8.30 am to the camp at Matikochhar.  We walked through Kais wildlife sanctuary which was filled with huge pine trees. It was a relaxing walk. The tree lines all along were overlooking the Kullu Valley.  We had beautiful views of mountain ranges, ridges and snow clad mountain tips. 

Some vultures were gliding gracefully high up in the sky adding drama to the scenery.  White flowers of the wild strawberry fruit dotted the path. Also there were water springs and flowers in different shapes, colours and sizes. 

Almost nearing the destination, there was a traffic jam with goats blocking the path. Some of them were cute and nicely posed for photographs. 

Finally, we reached a forest Rest House located in the middle of the sanctuary. This site offered a fantastic view of the adjoining mountain peaks and the valley below. 

Everyone was a bit relived as there were a couple of restrooms and we didn't have to rely on the cat pits. There were also some charging points available and all the phones waited in queue to get charged. The kitchen team was courteous enough to provide all of us with some hot water to freshen up. We played some game for a while till lunch was prepared.  Rest of the day  got a bit boring as there was nothing much to do. 

Day 5

We left the Kais wildlife sanctuary at 8.30 am. The first 100 meters was quite steep and most of us started huffing and puffing. Later the path was criss cross and going up. We were trekking through dense deodar forest. Initially I was getting tired as I was walking fast but later found my pace. 

The ascent ended at beautiful rolling meadows nothing less than a typical Switzerland scenery. Landscapes were lovely and the view of the Valley was magnificent.  Wherever we went, we were all by ourselves. On the way, there was  a small stream flowing around which there were lots of bright yellow flowers, white & brown butterflies, some of them sitting pretty on the flowers and others mud puddling. Further up, there was a patch of snow. Kids played happily throwing snow at one another. We also spotted skulls of cattles. 

 Leaving  the meadows behind, we were gradually ascending through the forest  predominantly consisting of  pine, cedar, deodar, oak trees and small meadows for about an hour till we reached our camp site at UmlaRuar.  Purple primulas flowers started dotting the path near the camping area. These flowers grow only in high altitude. 

As the campsite unfolded, I was in for a surprise. It felt just like being in a fairyland. There was no civilisation anywhere nearby. Undulating mighty mountain ranges of Pirpanjal and Dhauladhar faraway, rolling meadows covered with bright green grass, a heart shaped lake , a white patch of snow at a distance and the cute bright coloured tents that were pitched there all added to the charm of the place. It was an inexplainable moment and I lost sense of the place, appreciating the beauty all around. 

We were just in time to  unload our luggages and enter the mess tent when it started raining. There was a nip in the air. We all had our lunch and started some recreational activity when the weather changed all over and became sunny. 

Evening, some of us chose to climb up a vantage point to enjoy the sunset and panoramic view of the place. After our team lead briefed us about the next day's agenda, we decided to call it a day. 

Day 6

After the memorable stay at UmlaRuar, we started our gradual climb through Rumtu, a small pass on the way. This was a bit challenging one and once we reached the end of our ascent, we had arrived at a small meadow again with breathtaking view of snow clad mountains. Am short of words to explain the elegance of the mountains and moments of solitude that I experienced over there. 

From here, the rest of the journey for the day was only descend which was quite steep. I'm always apprehensive of descents and had a tough time navigating the path with some slushy places making it even more difficult. One of the guides was very helpful. He sensed my fears and helped me through it by handholding me for some distance.

 It was the blooming season of rhododendrons. The last leg of the journey was a visual delight with rhododendrons along with other shades of green blanketing the valley. 

It was around 12.30 pm when we reached a small stream that was flowing along this valley and it was decided that we camp there for the day. The campsite was surrounded by mountains on all sides and no other soul except us. 

We ladies helped one another to wash our hair in that freezing water of the stream in spa style. In the evening, we were spoilt for choice for dinner as the cooks prepared French fries, local delicacies like momos, siddus and more. 

Next day was suppose to be the D-day where we would be reaching the peak (3650 Mts) with total 6 hours of trek where 4 hours was ascend and the rest being descend. Some were anxious about the ascend while my concern was about descending. We all hit the bed early as we were suppose to leave quite early the next day. The stream was right behind our tent and the soothing sound of the water flowing there acted like a lullaby to me.

Day 7

 After having a light breakfast and carrying packed lunch, we left the place around 7.15 am. The initial ascend was a strenuous one with rocky path but the views of black and bright brown rocks were beautiful. 

Our team lead kept motivating everyone through the journey. I was surprised that I could easily ascend even with a not-so-light backpack and a DSLR camera hanging to my neck. 

 At some places, pink patches of rhododendrons were seen and acted as energy boosters.  After trekking for 4 hours uphill, weather became quite chill, foggy and cloudy as well. 

We had to put on our rainwear and walk. Soon, we started walking on a ridge. Our visibility of the road ahed was almost zero and we could barely see 10 meters ahead. Within half an hour, we had reached the summit. Everyone was exuberating. After resting there for a while, we started to descend. 

    

My nightmare started again. Some places had loose mud while other places had slippery rocks. I had borrowed a stick from the horsemen and tried using it. It helped to some extent but was not sufficient at some places. One of our fellow trekkers, a lady in her late 50s, a connoisseur in trekking and had became a good friend of mine, hand held me through most of the journey along with the guide.   All the while I was ahead of the group while ascending and now it reversed. I was trailing behind everyone.  At one stretch, it was filled with snow and we had no choice but to slide in it. It was really fun and everyone enjoyed it. After this, half an hour of trek was left. It was almost 12 in the noon and rats were running in our stomachs. But the team lead insisted that we continue without stopping as it could rain anytime. We munched some chocolates and proceeded without stopping.

 A dog started following us from this spot. It was a friendly one. This stretch was full of small rocks and it was quite taxing on my knees ankles and toes. I slowly walked the path that was lined up with rhododendrons again. The slopes of the fabulous mountains, sweet-smell of the flowers, water streams made this path enchanting.  We were in Chaklani at last. 

Chaklani was a jaw-dropping sight with the surreal beauty of the snow clad Dhauladhar peaks just above our eye level, view of the Manali valley below and the gorgeous surroundings.  My joy knew no bounds. I had never felt so calm before. The sight of the mountains were alluring. 

The mountain weather is so unpredictable. We use to see all four seasons in a day.  Soon it began snowing quite heavily and we had to withdraw ourselves inside the mess tents. The dog that followed us along with another one also entered the tent and took shelter. It snowed almost for an hour and the temperature dropped significantly. We had to put on our thermals, sweaters, winter jackets and gloves.  Once the sky cleared up, sun started beaming again in the blue sky. 

 Dusk was setting in and the evening light hit the  mountain ranges to  produce a golden glow. It was a sight to behold. 

Surprise was waiting for everyone from the kitchen team. They had prepared pizzas and cakes along with many other items.  No one had ever imagined that we would get such good food on the mountains. 

The entire surroundings became slushy after the snow fall and our shoes were in really bad shape. We cuddled inside our tents post dinner.  The horses and mules just kept moving around the tents for more than an hour making a lot of noise and prevented me from catching my sleep quickly. They even toppled one of the tents in the night. 

Day 8

Woke up in the morning and pulled myself out of the tent to get a glimpse of the majestic mountains in the morning sunlight. Rising sun's rays were peaking from behind the mountains. It was becoming warm. The dog that followed us was taking sun bath.  The water was freezing cold. Had to get some warm water from the kitchen tent to even brush our teeth. 

It was the last day that kitchen team would spend with us. They were amazing cooks who satiated us with hot and appetising food from day one. We gave them some gifts and thank you cards. 

Everyone packed their luggages and got ready for the descent. I bid good bye to the peaks with a heavy heart and started from there making sure that I had my stick with me. 

Trail descended through the mixed forest of Walnut, Chestnut and Maple to the village of Rumsu.  

Again, I started trailing and my friend came to my rescue. I even offloaded my camera to the guide as my back started aching. Though the surroundings were beautiful, I couldn't enjoy it much as the slopes were intimidating me. Towards the end of the journey, we hit the famous heritage village Naggar (1840 Mts) which is located in the middle of the Kullu valley. From here, we could get a panoramic view of the Valley. Here, we saw many villagers engrossed in their work. It became harder and harder for me and the journey looked never ending. My mind was tired and knees, ankles bruised. When I finally hit the flat main road where our vehicle was waiting to take us to Manali, I heaved a sigh of relief.

Manali was around 45 to 1 hour drive from that place. We were back to civilisation again. It was a mixed feeling. Sad to leave the mountains but glad to get back to some amount of sophistication that we have got used to.  Reached Hotel Mountain Trail and lay dead on the bed. Had a refreshing bath after a gap of 4-5 days and relaxed for the rest of the day. 

Day 9

Previous day, just after descending, I had decided that I will not go for any other treks. But it was like the feeling of 'Prasava Vedana'. :)  Next day, got up fresh and with reduced pain, was already sketching my next trek. That day  was meant for deacclimitization. So, the plan was to roam around in Manali. First, we walked to Hidimba temple nearby and then to temple Manu which are located in old Manali. 

The streets of Manali are vibrant and colourful. Enroute, we saw many cherry trees brimming with bright red cherries. A lady was selling them on the roadside too. 

 Post breakfast, went to Mall street, a famous street for shopping enthusiasts. After making some purchases and having lunch in a nearby restaurant, left to the hotel. Packed our luggages by evening and caught the bus to Chandigarh and the flight back to Bangalore the next day.  I couldn't thank Woody adventure enough for such flawless arrangement of the trek at every stage and for all the unforgettable memories of the trip. 

Lessons for Life

During some solitude moments, a lot of thought passed across my mind.  It was an analogy to life's journey and thought  it is worth recording them. 

1.The lighter our backpack is, the better ourjourney experience is. Like wise, we should keep our emotional baggage light to enjoy the journey of life. 

2. We can not take shortcuts during the  journey. Soon we will get tired and be left behind. Slow and steady pace helps you to be consistent. 

3. There are always people ahead and behind in the journey. We are not competing with anyone but with ourselves. 

4.. People we meet in our journey have different personalities but each of them have something good in them. Learn to appreciate everyone. 

4. Enroute, we will come across beautiful vistas, bright flowers, colourful birds, streams and so on. These are like the attractions in our lives. Enjoy them, appreciate them and go ahead.  We need to reach our destination. 

5. We also encounter not so pleasant scenes like fallen trees, dry leaves, bones etc., representing sorrows of life. They cannot deter us from moving ahead. 

6. Some stretches are straight forward, easy and relaxing but others are curvy, steep, slippery and rocky. Once you cross them, spectacular view awaits you at your destination. No pain, no gain. They are similar to the phases in our life which is not a bed of rose always. Take them as they come. You will a sense of achievement when you look back.

Finally, some 'gyan' for the first time trekkers. Please carry wet wipes in sufficient quantity. They will save you from discomfort while using cat pits to relieve yourselves and to take sponge baths when you are out of reach of the civilised world.

Every journey begins with a single step and it has to end for a new beginning. My trekking journey has begun with this one and am looking forward to catch up with the mountains again. Till then, see ya!